Valley Yarns #63 Advancing Twill Scarf

Valley Yarns Advancing Twill Scarf

What Is Being Made

The Valley Yarns Advancing Twill Scarf is a handwoven silk accessory designed by Barbara Elkins. This scarf measures 7¾ inches wide by 72 inches long (or to the weaver's preference), making it a versatile length suitable for various styling options. The finished piece showcases an elegant advancing twill pattern created through strategic shaft manipulation on a multi-shaft loom.

Weaving Techniques

This project employs an advancing twill technique as its primary design element. The advancing twill is a simple 6-shaft motif that is strategically flipped multiple times throughout the weaving to create visual interest and movement across the fabric. Rather than relying on complex pattern changes, the design achieves sophistication through the repetition and reversal of this fundamental twill structure.

An additional technical feature is the incorporation of plain weave at the edges. This plain weave border serves a practical purpose: it eliminates the need for a floating selvage, resulting in cleaner, more finished edges without extra structural elements. The threading pattern is carefully planned to ensure optimal shuttle entry, with the outermost end positioned to enter the shed consistently, which contributes to superior edge quality throughout the weaving process.

Stripe patterning is created through the use of two distinct yarn colors in the warp and weft, allowing the advancing twill structure to display color variation as the pattern shifts across the fabric width.

Loom and Equipment Requirements

This scarf requires an 8-shaft loom with a minimum weaving width of 15 inches and a 12-dent reed. The project uses a single shuttle for weft insertion. The reed setting is 32 ends per inch (epi) in the 12-dent reed, threaded in a 2-3-3 pattern, resulting in 278 total warp ends.

Materials: Yarn and Specifications

Both warp and weft are constructed from Valley Yarns 20/2 Silk, a fine, two-ply silk yarn that creates a lustrous, fluid fabric ideal for scarves.

• Warp Yarn: Valley Yarns 20/2 Silk in colorway #652 Felt Green. Approximately 973 yards are required for a 3½ yard warp, which allows for at least 75 inches of woven length before washing plus generous fringe. The yarn yields 4900 yards per pound.
• Weft Yarn: Valley Yarns 20/2 Silk in colorway #651 Nile (discontinued). Approximately 580 yards are needed for a 75-inch scarf before washing. Valley Yarns recommends #660 Grapefruit as a suitable substitute. This yarn also yields 4900 yards per pound.

The use of 20/2 silk creates a refined, drapable fabric with natural sheen. The fine weight allows the advancing twill pattern to display clearly while maintaining the elegance expected of a silk accessory.

Threading and Pattern Construction

The threading draft follows a specific sequence designed to maintain consistent shed entry for the shuttle. The pattern threads from A to E once with no spaces, then from C to E twice more, followed by D to A once, ending with an end on shaft 8. This arrangement of 5 ends total on the left edge ensures that if threading begins on shaft 7 and ends on shaft 8, the shuttle will consistently enter the shed with the outermost end positioned upward, optimizing edge quality throughout the weaving process.

Warp and Finishing Considerations

The warp length of 3½ yards is calculated to provide sufficient yardage for the desired finished scarf length plus fringe. Alternatively, weavers may utilize a 3-yard warp by incorporating tie-on ends and thrums for additional warp material. The scarf can be woven to the weaver's preferred length, offering flexibility in the final dimensions while maintaining the 7¾-inch width established by the reed setting and threading plan.