Valley Yarns #67 Zephyr Shawl in 8-Shaft Atwater-Bronson Lace

Valley Yarns Zephyr Shawl in 8-Shaft Atwater-Bronson Lace

What Is Being Made

The Zephyr Shawl is a lightweight woven wrap designed by Barbara Elkins. This finished shawl measures 25" × 78" plus fringe, making it an elegant accessory perfect for layering. The design showcases a sophisticated color interplay, with Aegean blue weft floats visible on the front and Jade warp floats creating iridescence on the reverse. The fabric is intentionally created to be cloud-soft and airy, ideal for a delicate shawl that drapes beautifully.

Weaving Technique: Atwater-Bronson Lace

Atwater-Bronson lace is a traditional lace weaving technique that creates open, decorative patterns through the strategic floating of warp and weft threads. This method produces elegant negative space within the fabric structure, allowing light to pass through while maintaining structural integrity. The technique is particularly valued for creating gossamer-weight textiles with intricate visual interest.

The Zephyr Shawl employs an 8-shaft loom setup, which allows for complex pattern development. The weaving notes indicate two possible tie-up configurations: one with warp floats facing the weaver and another with weft floats facing the weaver. The pattern recommends using the warp floats tie-up to minimize treadle complexity and reduce the risk of threading errors. The shawl is woven in three distinct sections: an initial 16-pick introduction (A to B), a repeating pattern section (B to C) woven to desired length, and a final 16-pick plain weave finish.

Threading and Loom Setup

This pattern requires an 8-shaft loom with a minimum 30" weaving width. The reed specification is 8-dent, and a single boat shuttle is needed for weft insertion. The threading sequence is carefully structured to maintain even selvages: threads run from end 1 through end 61, repeat from end 62 to end 163 three times, then thread in reverse from end 66 to end 2. This deliberate construction—starting on shaft 2 and ending on shaft 1—ensures balanced edge control during weaving.

The sett (thread density) is 16 ends per inch (epi), which is notably lighter than the traditional sett for Zephyr yarn. This reduced density contributes to the cloud-soft hand of the finished fabric but requires careful beat control during weaving to maintain consistent fabric quality.

Yarn and Materials

The shawl is woven with 2/18 Jaggerspun Zephyr yarn at 5040 yards per pound (YPP), a fine, delicate yarn ideal for lace weaving. The warp requires 1,728 yards of Jade, with a total of 433 warp ends and a warp length of 4 yards. The weft uses approximately 960 yards of Aegean blue.

Note on yarn availability: Aegean blue has been discontinued. Valley Yarns recommends substituting Marine Blue as an alternative that maintains the intended color effect and iridescent quality of the finished shawl.

Weaving Process and Pattern Repeat

The treadling sequence is divided into three phases. First, weave from position A to B once, which comprises 16 picks and establishes the lace pattern introduction. Next, repeat the B to C sequence for the desired length of the shawl body—this is where the main Atwater-Bronson lace pattern develops. Finally, finish with 16 picks of plain weave to secure the fabric and create a stable edge.

The weaving notes emphasize beginning with the shuttle positioned on the side where the outermost warp end is up. This practice helps maintain even, balanced selvages throughout the weaving process and is integral to the threading design that alternates between even and odd shafts at the edges.

Finished Fabric Characteristics

The completed Zephyr Shawl is a masterclass in lightweight lace weaving. The reduced sett creates an exceptionally soft, drapable fabric that catches and reflects light beautifully. The color interplay between the Jade and Aegean blue (or Marine Blue substitute) produces subtle iridescence when viewed in sunlight, adding visual depth and sophistication to the finished piece. The combination of careful yarn selection, precise loom setup, and thoughtful pattern design results in a shawl that is both technically accomplished