Valley Yarns #133 Chiyo Mobius Shawl

Valley Yarns Chiyo Mobius Shawl

What is Being Made

The Chiyo Mobius Shawl is a woven mobius-construction shawl designed by Wendy Bestor. This garment features a distinctive twisted construction that allows it to drape elegantly across the shoulders without slipping off, while the front twist adds visual interest and flattering dimension. The finished shawl measures 19 inches by 70 inches and is characterized by its soft, drapey hand and surprising warmth despite its light weight.

Weaving Techniques

This shawl employs Atwater-Bronson Lace combined with Plain Weave as its primary weaving structure. The lace technique creates openwork patterning that contributes to the garment's light, airy quality while maintaining structural integrity. The integration of plain weave sections provides stability and support for the lace elements. The mobius construction itself is a specialized technique that creates a continuous loop with a single twist, requiring careful planning in the warp setup and threading sequence.

Stitches and Threading Details

The pattern uses a 3-shaft loom configuration, which is the minimum equipment needed for this design. The warp threading follows a specific color-order sequence across 374 ends arranged in three shafts:

• Shaft 1: 187 heddles
• Shaft 2: 139 heddles
• Shaft 3: 48 heddles

The warp color order alternates between three distinct yarn types in a carefully planned sequence: Tencel in quantities of 36, 16, 10, 8, and 18 ends in various positions; Alpaca/Silk in 16, 8, and 18-end groups; and Charlemont in 8-end repeats. This threading pattern, combined with the tie-up configuration, produces the lace and stripe effects visible in the finished fabric.

Materials: Yarns and Equipment

Warp Yarns:

• Valley Yarns 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell, 3360 yards per pound): 576 yards in Ecru
• Valley Yarns 14/2 Alpaca/Silk blend (80% alpaca, 20% silk, 3472 yards per pound): 378 yards in Natural
• Valley Yarns Charlemont Kangaroo Dyer (60% merino wool, 20% silk, 20% polyamide): 168 yards in Oak Grove (note: this yarn has been discontinued; suitable substitutes include Malabrigo Sock in colorways such as Land of Oz, Gingy, or Piedras)

Weft Yarn:

• Valley Yarns 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell, 3360 yards per pound): 916 yards in Ecru

Equipment Required:

• 3-shaft loom, minimum 24 inches wide
• 1 shuttle
• 1 bobbin
• 12-dent reed (threading 1-2 ends per dent for Tencel and Alpaca/Silk at 18 epi; 1 end per dent for Charlemont at 12 epi)

The warp is wound to 3 yards length at a sett of 18 ends per inch for the Tencel and Alpaca/Silk yarns, and 12 ends per inch for the Charlemont yarn, resulting in a width in the reed of 22.2 inches.

Design Characteristics

The combination of lace and stripe techniques creates visual texture and pattern throughout the shawl. The three distinct yarn types—lightweight lyocell, luxurious alpaca/silk blend, and hand-dyed merino-based yarn—work together to produce a fabric with varied visual interest and complex color interplay. The lace structure ensures the shawl remains breathable and lightweight, while the fiber content provides both softness and warmth, making it suitable for layering across a wide range of seasons and occasions.