Valley Yarns #72 Advancing 5-end Twill Scarf

Valley Yarns Advancing 5-end Twill Scarf

What is Being Made

The Advancing 5-end Twill Scarf is a woven accessory designed by Barbara Elkins that measures 7 inches wide by 72 inches long (or desired length). This scarf showcases an advancing point twill pattern that enlarges each unit in a 1,2,3,2,1 sequence, creating a sophisticated visual effect that builds on the traditional twill weaving structure. The design is particularly striking when woven with lustrous bamboo yarn, which enhances the dimensional quality of the advancing twill pattern.

Techniques Used

This project employs an advancing point twill technique, which represents a modern evolution of the classic point twill that has long been fundamental to weaving practice. The advancing twill structure became more accessible with computer-assisted loom design, allowing weavers to create complex interlocking patterns with precision. The pattern requires careful attention during both the threading and treadling stages, as the enlarging units demand accurate shaft selection and treadle sequencing. The scarf begins and ends with three picks of tabby weave to stabilize the edges, and the treadling follows a "tromp as writ" method, meaning the first 78 ends of the threading sequence repeats for the desired scarf length.

Stitches and Structural Elements

• Advancing Point Twill: The primary weave structure that creates the distinctive pattern through the 1,2,3,2,1 unit enlargement sequence
• Tabby Weave: Used for the opening and closing picks to secure the fabric edges
• Floating Selvages: Included in the warp count (155 total ends) to maintain neat side edges

The scarf requires an 8-shaft loom with a minimum weaving width of 15 inches. The threading draft specifies precise heddle placement across all eight shafts, with varying heddle counts per shaft (ranging from 18 to 20 heddles depending on the shaft). The tie-up configuration creates the specific treadle combinations necessary to produce the advancing twill effect. A temple is recommended during weaving to maintain even edges and minimize edge pull-in, ensuring consistent fabric quality throughout the project.

Materials: Yarn and Equipment

Yarn: Valley Yarns 5/2 Bamboo is used for both warp and weft. The warp uses Royal (459 yards) and the weft uses Azure (390 yards) for a single 3-yard scarf warp. The pattern suggests winding a 6-yard warp to weave two scarves with minimal additional effort. The 5/2 bamboo yarn provides the lustrous finish that particularly enhances the advancing twill pattern's visual depth.

Loom Setup: The scarf is woven at a sett of 18 ends per inch (epi) using a 9-dent reed with 2 ends per dent in a 1, 2, 1, 2 pattern, or alternatively a 12-dent reed with the same distribution. The warp consists of 155 ends including floating selvages. Equipment needed includes an 8-shaft loom, one shuttle, and optionally a temple to assist with edge management.

Finishing Techniques

The Valley Yarns 5/2 Bamboo requires specific finishing methods to maintain fabric integrity. The scarf is finished with a twisted fringe created by grouping 3 or 4 warp ends in each half of the twist. For decorative enhancement, seed beads can be inserted between fringe units by sliding them onto the outermost ends before twisting. After weaving is complete, the fabric is rinsed in cold water with Eucalan or another quality wool wash and a color catcher, then gently rinsed again. Excess water is removed by rolling the fabric in a towel, and the scarf is hung on a rod or laid flat to dry. Final finishing includes steam pressing to set the weave and enhance the scarf's drape and appearance.