Valley Yarns #159 Full Disclosure Coat

Valley Yarns Full Disclosure Coat

Project Overview

The Full Disclosure Coat is an advanced weaving project designed by Elisabeth Hill for weavers seeking a substantial and rewarding undertaking. This draped coat is engineered to flatter multiple body types and features reversible construction through bound seams and hand-sewn finishing. The project combines complex weaving techniques with garment assembly, resulting in a striking statement piece that showcases both fiber artistry and tailoring skill.

Weave Structure and Techniques

This coat is constructed using double weave, a sophisticated weaving structure that creates two layers of fabric simultaneously on the loom. Double weave provides exceptional durability, drape, and the ability to create reversible garments. The pattern employs seamed construction and striped patterning created through the strategic use of multiple yarn colors in both warp and weft. The bound seams are hand-sewn to prevent puckering and enhance the reversible nature of the finished coat.

Equipment Requirements

• 8-shaft loom, minimum 54 inches wide
• 8-dent reed
• 4 shuttles and 4 bobbins for managing multiple yarn colors

Warp Specifications

The warp is set at 32 ends per inch (epi) with 4 ends per dent in an 8-dent reed, creating 16 epi per layer in the double weave structure. The total warp consists of 1,697 ends across a width of 53 inches in the reed, with a warp length of 5 yards. The finished off-loom dimensions measure 50 inches by 130 inches.

Warp Yarns

The warp combines two complementary fiber types for strength and visual interest:

• Valley Yarns Rayon Chenille (100% Rayon, 1450 yards per pound): Shale (2,430 yards), Light Grey (960 yards), and Black (850 yards)
• Valley Yarns 8/2 Tencel (100% Lyocell, 3,360 yards per pound): Black (4,245 yards)

The rayon chenille provides lustrous drape and textural interest, while the 8/2 Tencel contributes strength and stability to the structure. These fibers are described as strong but willful, requiring close attention and best weaving practices throughout the process.

Weft Yarns

The weft uses the same yarn palette as the warp, allowing for cohesive color integration and reversibility:

• Valley Yarns Rayon Chenille (100% Rayon, 1450 yards per pound): Shale (2,135 yards), Light Grey (817 yards), and Black (739 yards)
• Valley Yarns 8/2 Tencel (100% Lyocell, 3,360 yards per pound): Black (3,730 yards)

The weft is set at 32 picks per inch (ppi), with 16 ppi per layer in the double weave, creating a balanced and stable fabric suitable for a structured coat.

Finishing and Sewing Notions

After weaving, the fabric undergoes wet finishing to develop drape and handle. The garment assembly requires:

• Black sewing thread
• 3 packages of Wrights Double Fold Bias Tape Quilt Binding in Black
• 4 packages of Wrights Extra Wide Double Fold Bias Tape in Black
• Vogue Pattern V8930 in size Medium

The bound seams are hand-sewn to create a professional finish that prevents puckering and maintains the coat's reversibility.

Skill Level and Considerations

This is an advanced project requiring experience with multi-shaft looms, complex yarn management, and substantial wet finishing. Weavers should be prepared for extended project time, careful attention to weaving practices, and the physical demands of handling bulky yardage during washing and finishing. The sewing pattern itself is straightforward, allowing focus on the quality of the bound seam construction.